“Sonnymoon for Two by Sonny Rollins”
The materials for the shirt were modeled off of materials from the 1950’s, made in Okayama from thread. Featuring rope-dyed threads of 20 single count on the horizontal threads and threads of 20 single count on the vertical, we put extra effort into tightening the thread twisting process as to allow for a crisper texture. The evenness of the threads serves as another signature of the piece – one can enjoy the draping sense of the fabric as they continue to wear it. I personally thought that the Chambray shirt’s fabric looks best when unwashed – so I went about revising the material standards as to allow the shirt to look great even after washed. On the left pocket is a pen pocket, with an eared gazette on the collar and a gather around the back and the sleeve area. The line of the cuff opening is very slightly curved, similar to those of dress shirts. On the back side of the shirt we see core-stopper stitches lined up for further reinforcement; with the stitches lined up in a shape complementing the opening of the sleeves, sewn carefully into the shirt’s design.
Like cantate’s other shirts, this shirt features a crest – but this shirt features a crest in both the top and the bottom, a technique called a “loaded crest.” The technique details that one uses a separately-prepared piece of cloth rolled into a tube, loading it on while folding the material and sewing. We attach a metal fitting called a rapper onto the sewing machine and sew it in an old-fashioned chain stitch style. The buttons are white butterfly shell buttons, sewn on by hand.
On the inside of the left chest pocket, we attached a pocket known as a “union pocket” – rooted in work-wear found in the United States long ago. The union pocket is a unified sign of certification of the work-wear union in the United States – the union sold one ticket at one cent per piece, and it was said that one was required to sew the ticket inside. Of course, this tradition has now faded out, but we have revived these signs and details of the times within such additions – as we have with both the sewing style and design.
- Chambray Shirt
- Cotton100％ TAPE/Silk100%